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Scrabster - Stromness
Operator:
NorthLink Ferries
Crossing Time: 1h 30min
Regular Ship:
HAMNAVOE
MAIN ORKNEY MAP |
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ROUTE TIMELINE |
1856 -
1868: ROYAL MAIL
1882 - 1890:
ST OLAF
1890 -
1892: EXPRESS, ST NICHOLAS, JOHN O’ GROAT, QUEEN (II)
1892 - 1951: ST OLA (I)
1951 - 1975: ST OLA
(II)
1975 - 1992:
ST OLA
(III)
1992 - 2002:
ST OLA
(IV)
2002:
HEBRIDEAN
ISLES (external link to SoC)
2002 - Present:
HAMNAVOE |
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Additional Ships:
ST NINIAN (War time relief duties), EARL OF ZETLAND (II) (War time relief
duties), ST CLEMENT (II) (relief duties), ORCADIA (Chartered from Orkney
Islands Shipping Company Ltd, relief duties), ROF BEAVER (relief duties),
ST MAGNUS (VI) (relief duties),
CLANSMAN (Chartered from Caledonian
MacBrayne, relief), SMYRIL (Chartered from Stranfaraskip Landsins, relief
duties), ST ROGANVALD (IV) (relief duties),
ST SUNNIVA (III) (relief
duties),
HEBRIDEAN ISLES (Chartered from Caledonian MacBrayne, relief duties),
HASCOSAY (relief duties) |
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TERMINAL FACILITIES |
Scrabster:
The facilities at Scrabster have had a major overhaul for the introduction
of the present ship HAMNAVOE. The new deep water pier includes a
new terminal building, an additional freight marshalling area, and an
aircraft style passenger walkway. The old terminal building is still in
use as a check-in and payment area for un-booked vehicles and their
passengers. The old car marshalling area, car check in booth, and
weighbridge are still in operation. The old pier and linkspan can still
be used in calm weather and is actually preferred by the regular relief
vessel HEBRIDEAN ISLES. The HAMNAVOE is considered too
large to operate from the old berth.
Stromness:
Stromness terminal has also had a major overhaul in preparation for the
arrival of the HAMNAVOE. A new (wider) linkspan has been
installed, the pier was extended and height increased, the marshalling
area for cars and freight extended, terminal building extended, and an
aircraft style passenger walkway installed. |
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ROUTE HISTORY |
Links to Orkney from the Scottish mainland are set in recent history by the
many years of effort by the “North Company” whose origin can be traced back
to 1790 with the establishment of the Leith and Clyde Shipping Company,
which became the North of Scotland and Orkney and Shetland Shipping Company
by 1875. The first regular steamer service was probably provided by
small sailing vessels actually operating a Leith Clyde service prior to the
completion of the Caledonian Canal. During this lengthy journey the
vessel would have called at various locations en route (which would have
included Orkney) and was probably less frequent than weekly. Ferry links
between Caithness and Orkney have however thought to have been in existence
for around 500 years.
During the early to mid 1800’s there were several
costal steamer services linking Wick and Kirkwall with various ports
south, including Inverness and Newhaven. These links were carried out
initially by the Velocity and Sovereign. These services were
expanded to include Lerwick and have continued with variation ever since,
e.g. it is not dissimilar to the Aberdeen-Kirkwall-Lerwick operation
currently carried out by NorthLink.
The first known regular service across the Pentland
Firth started in 1856 between Scrabster and Stromness by a Stromness
shipbuilder by the name of John Stanger. In 1874 the Highland Railway had
reached Thurso with John Stanger obtaining the Royal Mail contract in
1877. The Royal Mail seen the route as a logical extension to the main
North line, with John placing the small paddle steamer Royal
Mail
on the route to fulfil this purpose.
In 1880 Scapa Pier (2 miles from Kirkwall on the Southern side) was opened
and became the main terminal for Orkney. Stromness was therefore
relegated to a twice weekly call. In 1882 the North Company took over the
(apparently not profitable) Pentland Firth route building the steamer St
Olaf for this purpose. St Olaf had a short career (mainly due to
reports that she was extremely underpowered) and lasted only until 1890.
At around this time The North Company also reinstated Stromness as the main
Orkney port with calls at Scapa continuing to a lesser degree to uplift
mail.
Between 1890 and 1892 various external vessels to the
North Company operated the Pentland Firth service: Express (by
George Robertson), John O’ Groat (by McCallum and Company) and the
Argyll (by Argyll Steamship Company). The North Company vessel
Queen (II) also undertook spells of duty. In 1892 the North Company
placed the very first St Ola (the name St Ola being the Orkney
variation of St Olaf) on the route which was the initiation of a proud
name that was to serve the Pentland Firth for 122 years.
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The initial St Ola lasted on the route until1951 fulfilling an
amazing 59 year career on the Pentland Firth route. This extraordinary
length of service is probably more impressive when considering the vessel
successfully operated (and survived) both World Wars. She was finally
replaced by St Ola (II) which was built at the Alexander Hall & Co shipyard
in Aberdeen. St Ola (II) was purpose built for the Scrabster-Stromness
service and could carry 30 cars using her derrick to embark and disembark
vehicles into her main hold, that was designed for conventional cargo
handling in all honesty.
St Ola (II) lasted on the route until 1975 and
her 24 year reign was a period where the level of car ownership had
significantly increased. This would play an important part of the design
of her successor. St Ola (III) was another purpose built vessel
completed at the Hall Russell Shipyard, Aberdeen in 1974, and was the
first Ro-Ro vessel to be introduced into the North Isles and had a
capacity to carry 98 cars. Apart from the obvious improvement in car
capacity, the new Ro-Ro design also allowed cars and larger commercial
vehicles to be loaded quickly without the need of a crane or derrick.
Her entry into service was however postponed (until January 1975) due to
delays in the construction of the pier at Scrabster. Major civil
engineering works were required at both ports, which included the
installation of linkspans to allow loading/unloading of this entire new
bread of vessel. Between 1974 and 1975 the St Ola (II) remained in
service and was renamed St Ola II to allow her successor take the
St Ola name.
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ST OLA (II) IN FULL DRESS

ST OLA (III) IN THE PENTLAND FIRTH |
At around the arrival time of the St Ola (III),
the dawn of a new era was also sighted in the north with the P&O group
eventually taking control of the links to the Northern Isles. This was
not a straight forward transition! In 1961 The North Company became a
subsidiary of Coat Lines Ltd, which itself, was absorbed into the P&O
group by 1971. St Ola (III) lasted until 1992 when she was
proving to be too small and slow for a route that witnessed ever increasing
levels of passengers and vehicles.
P&O Scottish Ferries (as they were known from 1989) replaced St Ola
(III) with the 4th vessel to be honoured with the St Ola
name. This was a second hand vessel bought from Scandinavian waters and
was actually 3 years older than her predecessor. The German built St
Ola (IV) was however, a larger and faster unit being able to carry 120
cars. The St Ola (IV) was to serve the Scrabster-Stromness route
for 10 years, by which time she was also proving to be too small.
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On the 31st of October 2002 the St Ola
(IV) sailed from Stromness Harbour for the last time which signified
not only the end for the St Ola (IV) on the Pentland Firth, but
also P&O. Captain Willie MacKay addressed the two thousand onlookers
around the Stromness via the ship’s public tannoy system (which could be
heard throughout the harbour) while the vessel slipped away. Captain
MacKay gave a heartfelt thank you from the two crews of the St Ola (IV) to the people of Stromness, Scrabster and Thurso for the way
in which they had supported the ship over the years. He wished them all
well for the future. His farewell message drew cheers from the spectators
lining the harbour, and as, the Stromness Pipe Band struck up Auld Lang
Syne. As St Ola (IV) edged away from the linkspan, she gave three
long blasts on her horn, which prompted frantic waving from those on the
piers and on board the ship. A collection of local vessels escorted her
from Stromness Harbour while the sound of horns from cars and vessels
could be heard all along shore.
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ST OLA (IV) AT STROMNESS |
Contributing to this emotional send off was the inbound Hebridean Isles
which was taking up post for St Ola (IV)’s eventual successor.
When the St Ola (IV) was heading for her new owners she passed her
successor Hamnavoe in the Baltic as she was heading for Leith.
The succeeding company was of course NorthLink
Ferries (a consortium made up by Caledonian MacBrayne and the Royal Bank
of Scotland) which took control of the lifeline ferry links to the North
Isles on the 1st of October 2002. On the Pentland Firth
NorthLink designed and built the Hamnavoe which is by far the
largest and fastest vessel to serve the route. The Hamnavoe also
provides the highest level of passenger comfort ever seen on the Pentland
Firth, her on board fittings would not be out of place on any modern
cruise ship.
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With a familiar ring to the story, the Hamnavoe
was unable to enter service for several months due to delayed construction
work at the new Scrabster pier. During this period the Caledonian
MacBrayne vessel Hebridean Isles was drafted to cover in what was
an unpopular move by NorthLink. The Hebridean Isles did her best on the
Pentland Firth route, but was always going to be smaller (only 68 cars),
slower, and more susceptible to poor weather than St Ola (IV).
Mounting public pressure on NorthLink (and in turn Scrabster Harbour Trust
and the Scottish Executive) resulted in an interim solution been reached
where the linkspan at the exiting Scrabster pier was modified to allow the Hamnavoe to berth. This allowed the new and very impressive
Finnish built Hamnavoe to leave her lay up berth in Leith and take
up the Scrabster-Stromness route.
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THE NEW HAMNAVOE AT SCRABSTER |
When the Hamnavoe entered service in April
2003 many were surprised to learn that she had a lower car carrying
capacity than the St Ola (IV) even although she is around double
the gross tonnage of her predecessor. This is due to the fact she was
designed and built without half decks which were a feature of both St
Ola (III) and (IV). The official car capacity of the vessel is
98 cars which, is the same as the official figure for 1974 built St Ola
(III). The Hamnavoe does however have a greater commercial
lane capacity and corresponding deadweight capability, which has become an
important part of the route. The vessel also holds the sad honour of
breaking the 122 year name tradition that upset a large population in the
north for understandable reasons. Therefore, the introduction of NorthLink Ferries
marked the end of an era in more ways than one on the Pentland Firth, and
the Northern Isles as a whole for that matter.
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The Pentland Firth route has also seen numerous
additional and relief tonnage serve during gap periods. In the early
years there were copious arrangements of vessels to serve which is
difficult to report to any degree of accuracy. The main vessels to
provide cover are however mentioned within the initial sections of this
historical review. In the P&O years all the freight ships (Rof Beaver,
St Magnus (VI), and St Rognvald (IV) had operated the
crossing. On one occasion St Rognvald (IV) operated the Pentland
Firth crossing for 1 day carrying vehicles only, while the passengers were
shipped across the Pentland Firth via the short sea passenger crossing
between Burwick and John O’Groats on board Pentland Venture.
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ST MAGNUS AT SCRABSTER |
St Magnus (VI), the Orkney Islands Shipping
Company vessel Orcadia, and the Caledonian MacBrayne vessel the Clansman
(IV) (converted to ro-ro by this stage) had spells
covering the route between late 1982 and early 1983 while St Ola (III)
was out of service due to a major engine room fire, which occurred when
she was returning from refit. The Clansman (IV) was also a regular
stand in (during the winter refit schedule) for St Ola (III)
between the years of 1975 to 1983.
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After the St Sunniva (III) entered the Aberdeen-Stromness-Lerwick
service in 1987, she became the regular stand in for St Ola (III) & (IV)
during the winter refit schedule. St Sunniva (III) was actually a very
satisfactory replacement on the Pentland Firth due to her increased
speed and capacity of around 220 cars. The Faroese vessel Smyril was
also a regular stand in for St Ola (III) and (IV) which highlights a
strange twist for St Ola (IV). Her first appointment after leaving the
Pentland Firth was relieving the Smyril on Faroese inter island duties
(for Strandfaraskip Landsins) where she sailed retaining her North Isles
name St Ola. The Smyril was an easy choice for many years for P&O
as the Faroese state owned vessel was a good size for the route (around
the same size and capacity as St Ola (IV)) and was easily obtainable as
she carried out the now discontinued Scrabster-Thorshavn route, for
which P&O were the UK shipping agents.
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ST SUNNIVA (FAR) WITH ST OLA IN STROMNESS |
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NorthLink regularly charter the Caledonian MacBrayne
vessel Herbridean Isles during overhaul periods. The freight
vessel Hascosay was also placed on the route to relieve the
Hamnavoe for a two week spell, which was another occasion when
NorthLink upset the islanders. The Hamnavoe had to attend dry dock
for urgent structural repairs to her prop shaft support structure, with
NorthLink taking the obvious last ditch decision to deploy the Hascosay
(on a vehicle carrying capacity only) to the Pentland Firth. In another
familiar ring, passengers were shipped across the Pentland Firth via the
short sea crossing between Burwick and John O’Groats on board Pentland
Venture.
The history of the Pentland Firth ferry link has been
relatively stable affair apart from the early years when there was the
natural struggle to get any form of consistency. However, the last decade
had seen various speculation and doubt regarding the service and in
particular who would have the right to run it. In April 2004 the future of
the route was again put in doubt as it was announced NorthLink Ferries
were operating around double their agreed subsidy. The Scottish Executive
abandoned additional payouts to NorthLink and have put the North Isles
contract back out to tender. NorthLink believe there is several main
factors for their financial situation: additional freight competition on
Aberdeen-Lerwick route, loss of revenue caused by the delay at Scrabster
Pier which incurred the addition of the Hebridean Isles charter,
erroneous figures (that they believe were provided to them) from which the
winning tender was drawn, and, competition on the Pentland Firth by
(ironically) two former Caledonian MacBrayne vessels: the Pentalina B
(Ex Iona (VII)) and Claymore (III) sailing under the flag of
Pentland Ferries.
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Several companies returned a conformation of interest
to run the Northern Isles service. The companies that willingly released
their interest included: NorthLink Ferries, Caledonian MacBrayne, Smyril
Line, Streamline Shipping Group, and Pentland Ferries. A spokesman from
P&O Ferries (Terry Cairns, the former and last ever P&O Scottish Ferries
Managing Director) confirmed that P&O would not complete an application
for the tender although initially requesting a copy of the documents.
In July 2005 the Scottish Executive invited three
companies to tender for the contract. Two new companies (V Ships UK Ltd,
Irish Continental Ferries plc) emerged along with Caledonian MacBrayne,
however current operators NorthLink were not to be invited to tender,
probably due to the Royal Bank of Scotland’s last minute withdraw from
their involvement in NorthLink Ferries.
This decision prompted statements from both
Caledonian MacBrayne and NorthLink that only added to the confusion of the
whole tendering process and the status of NorthLink within the Caledonian
MacBrayne structure. NorthLink stated that after the Royal Bank of
Scotland pulled out, its involvement in the tendering process would be as
a company wholly owned by Caledonian MacBrayne. A Caledonian MacBrayne
spokesman stated, if successful, Caledonian MacBrayne would proceed as the
sole shareholder of the new operating company, which would continue under
its own management and infrastructure, adding that the likely name would
continue as NorthLink.
Since the three companies were appointed as invited
parties, Irish Ferries later announced that they no longer had an interest
in tendering for the contract due to financial concerns. The deadline for
completed tenders was December 1st 2005.
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HEBRIDEAN ISLES AND HAMNAVOE
AT STROMNESS

THE HOY HILLS WITH THE OLD MAN
FROM HEBRIDEAN ISLES |
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The final decision was delayed several times before Caledonian MacBrayne were eventually named as the
preferred bidder On March 9th 2006. Among the improvements to the service announced
were reduced freight rates and the inclusion of livestock in the contract.
However, shortly after the contract announcement it was reported on March 22nd that NorthLink
recorded a further £696,000, pre tax loss despite all previous additional subsidies.
This prompted many parties interested in the service to express the view that the priority would first be to
return the company to some form of financial stability. The eventual handover to Caledonian MacBrayne
(operating the service as NorthLink Ferries Limited, or NorthLink "2" for short!) was on July 06th 2006,
and lived up to the promise of been a seamless transfer with the NorthLink brand and ships operating as before the handover.
Since the hectic events since NorthLink “1” took control over P&O Scottish Ferries in 2002, it now looks the immediate future
of the Pentland Firth service is settled. It is however clear that there will be several variations and alterations
that will create additional historical events of note as Caledonian MacBrayne assert their full control on the company.
Therefore, more interesting times ahead?
Text By: Mark Wemyss,
Photos By:
Mark Wemyss, NorthLink & Simplon Cards |

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